Greece

in Travel

Greece Through My Eyes

The trip to Greece has been one of my most memorable vacations.

Planning the trip was the hardest part as there are so many islands to visit. Greece has 6000 islands of which a little over 200 are inhabited, which is still a lot to cover in a lifetime. You can either do an island tour or pick a few islands + Athens. After a lot of debate I settled for 4 days on the island of Santorini & 4 days in the city of Athens.

Travel Tips :

  1. There is no direct flight from Chicago to Athens, so I flew Chicago – Munich – Athens – Santorini. When booking flights from Athens to Santorini, you have to pay for luggage separately. If you miss that when making your reservation you will be asked to queue up and pay at a different counter at Athens airport. Not a big deal but could be a time saver if your flight is delayed and you are on a time crunch.
  2. Hotels in Santorini are $$$$$ expensive. A coworker of mine recommended using AirBnB. I found an excellent studio rental through AirBnB, located in Firostephani, a village between Oia & Fira (the two most touristy villages on the island). Compared to Fira & Oia, Firostephani is quieter,  serene and less congested. The landlady arranged transportation to/from the airport, greeted us on arrival, settled us in, arranged a scooter rental, recommended attractions and taverns for all days we were there. I always trust recommendations from the locals. She was always just a phone call away and promptly helped with anything we needed.

Santorini

Greece greets you deep blue skies & waters. Everything is white & blue, the colors of Greece. Santorini is one of the Greek islands, a result of a massive volcanic eruption and is famous for its iconic blue domed whitewashed churches.

This is the Stilvi studio I stayed at. Its a cozy honeymoon “cave” offering gorgeous views. The patio overlooks the caldera and offers one of the most beautiful sunset views. My favorite part was spending early mornings on the day bed, watching the cruise ships sail in and spending the evenings watching sunset. Always had chilled beer / wine and a pet cat for company. The only hard part about the studio was the water pressure…fluctuated b/w low & high every 15 seconds. By the second day I mastered the timing and matched my speed with it. It was an art.

 

The weather was HOT HOT HOT during the day and COLD COLD COLD after sunset. I spent my time visiting the Koutsoyannopoulos Wine Museum which is eight meters below ground and occupies a natural cave. The museum presents the history of wine and the life of vine-growers in Santorini since the 1600s. Also got to taste 4 delicious wines at the end. The Vinsanto and Kamaritis sweet wines were my favs. Toured the towns of Oia, Fira, Akrotiri, Prygos and Kamari. I would highly recommend spending a day at the Kamari Beach. Its a black sand beach offering facilities like sunbeds, umbrellas and various types of water sports. Lots of taverns along the beachfront and the best part is laying on the sunbed and watching the planes fly really really low for landing at Thira airport.

Santorini offers so many locations for watching sunset. People gather and claim their spots an hour before sunset. I watched the sunset from a new location every day, spent a relaxing afternoon the the Red, White and Black beaches in Akrotiri. Took a boat cruise of the caldera in the “Dreamcatcher” cruise boat. The boat stopped in the “hot” springs where the water temperature was cool-coldish (you will freeze your ass off).

If you like hiking, you can hike up Skaros Rock. Along the way you get great views of  the caldera and the town of Imerovigli. If you hike down the rock you will be rewarded with a  view of a small church on the edge of the cliff overlooking the caldera. Take a snack break there before you hike up (you will need the energy).

Now the best part…..the FOOD…..

I could go on and on about the food in Greece and still not do justice to it. Let me just say, the food is OUTSTANDING. So fresh and flavorful, makes me hungry and want to go back right now.

Recommendations for taverns / snack bars : Argo, Mc Daniel’s, Corner Crepes  & Waffles in Fira; Pirouni, Aktaion in Firostephani; Nichteri in Kamari Beach, Nicolas Cave Fish Tavern in Akrotiri.

My favorite dishes :

The moussaka at Aktaion, served in a clay pot is a a recipe passed on for generations. The tavern has been at the same location for 90 years and offers a great view of the caldera & sunset along with good food.

Tomato croquettes and the Sea Bass gyro at Argo. The gyro was a little unique. It was open rather than wrapped, made with thin crisp pita and had spicy greek sauce drizzled over tender pieces of sea bass. The seating host at Argo was very handsome. I shamelessly asked him to pose with me for a picture and he happily did 🙂

Oh, last but not the least there was Frozen Greek Yougurt place called Louyo. I ate there afternoon and night. Their fresh fruit, coco nibs and dark chocolate sauce made the frozen yogurt so delicious. The owners were friendly and treated me special due to my frequent visitation habit.

 

Something UNIQUE & FUN ….

I love sea food but never thought I could be fish food. Well, i was…LOL !!!

You will find people enjoying fish spas all over the place in Fira. You dip your hands and feet in the tank and the fish nibble on your dead skin leaving you with smooth and relaxed skin. I was a little skeptical at first but gave it a try. It was ticklish but enjoyable. Also got to write a personal thank you note for the fish on their wall.

 

That was my stay in Santorini. I left the island with tons of fond memories and hopes of going back again. Before I forget, there is laundry service in Fira. Drop off your dirty clothes and it will be returned same day washed, dried, folded along with a piece of candy :). Reasonably priced.

Island to Mainland Athens

In 45 minutes the scene totally changed. The hustling-bustling capital city of Athens is a mecca of graffiti and is home to  a wealth of history carefully preserved in the ancient ruins. Even though the scene changed, what didn't change were the people. I fell in love with the people of Greece. They were so kind, warm, welcoming and get five stars for their hospitality.

I stayed at Ochre & Brown, a boutique hotel located in the heart of the city, walking distance to all the major attractions and surrounded by a lots of restaurants. The staff and service of the hotel were exceptional. The best part was the water pressure in the shower. It was like a water cannon. Felt like heaven after the water pressure experience in Santorini. The hotel is located in the old streets of Athens with lots of adult shops and graffiti covered walls. I was skeptical at first sight but soon realized this is just how the city is.

There is an excellent Indian restaurant, Mirch near the hotel. You have to the eat the "Chicken Malai Tikka" there. Its better than what you get in India. The chicken will just melt in your mouth. 

One tavern that I would highly recommend in Athens is Paradosiako (means "traditional"). The food is truly traditional and home cooked. Its a very small place so try and reach before 8pm to get a table. Their special on the day was lamb and it was delicious, falling off the bone, just the way I like it.

Athens is a city of magnificent architecture. The remnants of the past provide a fascinating insight into the city's rich history. The ancient ruins are grand and beautiful to look at during the day as well as night. The night view of the Acropolis can be best appreciated from the top of the surrounding Filopappou hill. Hike up the hill before sunset, watch the sun set behind the mountains and stay there to watch the Acropolis light up at night.

Athens has a lot of "high spots" that offer unobstructed views of the densely populated city and monuments. One such high spot is the Lycabettus Hill. A cable car takes you to the top of the hill from where you can get a view of the city, the Acropolis and the Panatheniac stadium. But theres a hike to get to the cable car which will remind you of San Francisco's Lombard Street. Theres a chapel and tavern on top of the hill. Enjoy a cup of coffee sitting by the edge of the glass window in the tavern. Totally worth it. Oh, and as you go up the tunnel in the cable car, you will see food & coffee ads projected on the tunnels walls making you hungry on the way up.

Besides the architecture, the changing of the guard parade is worth watching. It takes place every hour at the Parliament building located in Syntagma Square. Its not as fancy as the one in London but is definitely worth watching. The ceremony on Sunday is the "big show".

Athens is vibrant 24X7. Crowds gather around Monastiraki Square, a flea market neighborhood and major shopping district. Theres always music, dancers and artists performing, much like on the streets of NYC.

Traveler Tip : in Athens, street names are printed on walls. If you stay near the Acropolis, everything is walking distance or you can take the train. If you want to do laundry and avoid paying high hotel prices, theres National laundry at 17 Apollonos, Plaka. Wash, dry, fold, same day service.